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MGB GT Teal Blue Project Part 6 Boot Carpet.

MGB GT Teal Blue Project Part 6 Boot Carpet.

After this job was completed I started to notice that many pics of GT’s online had an untidy boot space.  It seems logical to me to tidy it up. Therefore, this is how I tidied up the boot space on the GT project.

I chose a budget-friendly car carpet in neutral grey tones from a local supplier. Additionally, as the plan is to do quite a few of the interior carpet pieces myself, I thought it prudent to learn some trimming tricks and tips. Quite a few tutorials later I realised I would also need to shop for some decent tools before making a start.

How to:

There are some tips to get a clean fitting finish. A centre line in the boot was marked on some low tac tape as a reference point. Additionally, a centre line was marked on the backside of the carpet with a suitable marker. Checked multiple times, the measurements were transferred to the carpet. Being my 1st attempt I cut roughly 5mm over the lines to stay on the safe side.  I anticipate my skills improving the more I do this.

The ribs in the boot floor were also measured and marked on the carpet as reference points. I found with more reference points to check it’s easier to get the curved lines marked out on the carpet. I used a compass to mark out circles. Importantly, regularly put the carpet piece in and out of the boot making cuts to check the centre lines and reference points. This keeps you on track.

Moulding Carpet:

To mold carpet in internal corners or contours, spray the area with warm water from a spray bottle. Then, shape and form it with your fist or wooden handle as you place weights to hold the carpet in place. Finally, I left it overnight to help it retain its shape. This process of spaying with hot water, moulding, the use of weights and leaving it overnight works.


With the reference points, I was able to get a neat curved line at the back. Additionally, that 5mm left on my 1st cuts were slowly trimmed, regularly putting it in the boot and checking the centre lines and reference points. Importantly, I used this method to get a clean cut around the fuel filler hose as well.

Happy with my handy work, I contemplated how to finish it off neatly around the shelf towards the front. I simply chose to use some flat aluminium strips screwed down with stainless steel screws. This works well because it secures the carpet in the boot and as a finishing trim it looks good and makes the job look neat. Also, it can easily be lifted up to clean or vacuum, and it can easily be taken out to return the car to the original equipment.


The nut inside the wheel clamp point on the boot floor had worked loose. The repair was going to be necessary for it to work properly. With the surfaces prepared and the wheel retainer screwed into the nut, a piece of 2 pack weld putty from the local hardware was properly kneaded then worked into the hole where the nut locates. Secondly, the clamp was screwed down to force the nut up and hold it in position while the putty set. Thirdly, with the nut properly located, some more weld putty was moulded over and around the clamp fitting. The wheel retainer works properly now and keeps the spare wheel safely clamped down.

Happy MG trails….




Seat Belt Installation Inertia Type 1980 Model MGB GT

Seat Belt Installation Inertia Type 1980 Model MGB GT

Related posts ==> Other Repairs

Broken Seatbelt

My MGB GT LE is a 1980 model and over 40 years old.

The plastic cover over the original driver’s side seat belt latch broke recently, resulting in the release button falling out and the seat belt latch no longer able to clip together with the buckle.

Buying Tips

There were no inertia seat belt parts available from the regular MG parts suppliers looking online in Australia. I also checked the local auto parts stores, and no luck. I then found a local seat belt supplier company that could supply a suitable inertia-type replacement seat belt unit. The new unit was supplied with the seat belt unit, mounting plate, sleeve washer, bolts, and spring washers.

Following is a summary of buying tips:

  • The online search offered two seat belts – a simple lap strap and latch unit or a lap/sash inertia unit. Given the year of production (1980), my MGB GT had factory-fitted inertia units.
  • After looking closer, the passenger side seat belt unit was aftermarket, and the driver side unit was the original factory fitted unit.

Installing Tips

Following are some installation tips:

  • The mounting plate – Installing the after-market unit was fairly simple but offered a couple of small challenges. The first being the mounting plate. The original mounting plate/metal bar was shaped to maintain a level release spool for the strap to release when pulled, which will not actually release if not relatively level. I first fitted the spool unit with the flat metal mounting plate supplied with the new unit. Given the mounting nut’s position, which is slightly to the rear and the side from the top of the wheel arch, the spool unit was not level, and the belt did not release. I then noticed the original mounting plate had a slight twist, allowing the spool unit to sit relatively level. I re-installed the spool unit with the original mounting plate, and all work properly.
  • The second challenge was the wiring on the original latch component that sends a signal to the SEAT BELT warning light on the console of my 1980model MGB. I decided to cut the wires and leave them unconnected, making the SEAT BELT warning light inactive.
  • The original spring washers seemed to have less spring than the new spring washers supplied with the new unit, so I replaced the old with the new.
  • A couple of the new bolts were a little long, so I used the original bolts. I also used the sleeve washer to mount the new spool unit on the wheel arch, lifting it slightly higher.
  • The new spool unit was supplied with a hard plastic cover that does not clip anywhere and moves around. I plan to cut that cover off.


The new seat belt installation was fairly quick and simple and would have been quicker if I used the original mounting plate the first time around (see photo). The new unit works well, and the car is now ready to obtain a Road Worth Certificate for registration.